How to Apply and Install Epoxy, Urethane and Polyaspartic Coatings: A Step-by-Step Guide

Are you considering upgrading your floors with epoxy, urethane or polyaspartic coatings? These resilient materials not only enhance the appearance of your space but also increase the durability of your floors. This guide will walk you through the installation process using specific tools that help achieve a professional-quality finish. Remember, having the right tools on hand is key, and I’ll include links to some recommended products that you can purchase directly from Amazon. This guide will give you detailed step-by-step instructions on how to install an epoxy, urethane, and polyaspartic flooring system. We will also include details about how to install the colored flakes if you choose to go that route. It is optional, but beautiful and unique.

Materials and Tools Needed:

Before you begin, ensure you have the following tools and materials ready:

- Epoxy and Polyaspartic materials: (for recommendations on materials, give us a call or submit a contact form)

- Optional colored flakes - Flakes can be purchased from Dur-a-flex, Torginol, Sherwin Williams, and many others!

- Flat or Notched Squeegee: https://amzn.to/4aMUBop or https://amzn.to/3xDvjuc

• If you clean up the squeegee well after each coat, you only need one. We prefer to have one per coat, just in case. A notched squeegee (https://amzn.to/4cWMF5q) helps to evenly apply material at a heavier rate, while the flat squeegee helps to evenly spread thinner coats and topcoats. You can use the flat squeegee for heavier coats by applying less downward pressure on the squeegee.

- 9-Inch Roller Frame: https://amzn.to/3vSiBqJ

• You’ll be able to reuse your roller frame as long as you clean it up a bit after each coat. Just make sure it freely spins when you begin your next coating. If it doesn’t you’ll want to replace it.

- 18-Inch Roller Frame: https://amzn.to/3JgyL09

• You’ll be able to reuse your 18 inch frame.

-Nap Roller Extension Poles: https://amzn.to/3TWU9g3

• We usually have a pole with the 9 inch frame and 18 inch frame

-Squeegee Extension Pole (Wood or plastic): https://amzn.to/4cSoe97

• The basic window squeegees that are a cheap option for applying your coating do not use the standard broom threading. They are set on the pole and fastened with a screw. The attached broom pole allows you to attach a squeegee, and also use the threads of the broom pole afterwards.

- 9 Inch Nap Roller Covers (3/8 Nap): https://amzn.to/3Jhm3y9

• You’ll need at least one pack of three. We prefer to have a cover for each coat, plus a couple of extras incase we run into an issue that takes a while to correct, because the roller cover will begin to cure out while your delayed, resulting in a rough finish.

• Also, it’s important to choose the fine finish white roller covers. Choosing to purchase cheaper covers can result in nap debris falling off into the sticky coating, leaving chunks and debris throughout your floor.

-18 Inch Nap Roller Covers (3/8 Nap): https://amzn.to/4avTBVb

- Floor cleats: https://amzn.to/3Jm8BJi

• You’ll need one pair per installer

-5 Gallon Buckets: https://amzn.to/4cT1fL8

• You’ll need one 5 gallon mixing bucket per coat.

• If you are installing a colored flake epoxy system, you’ll want two or three extra 5 gallon buckets to fill with flakes. Using them, you’ll walk out onto the floor in your cleats and broadcast or throw the flakes into your wet material. It is much easier to throw from a 5 gallon bucket than from the box or packaging that they ship in.

-Mix Measure Buckets: https://amzn.to/3vHeyO7 & https://amzn.to/3VRYHqz

• 2, 2.5, 4, or 5 quart buckets depending on the size of mixes you plan to make:

• These buckets will be used to pre-measure the Part A and Part B material, then they are poured into your 5 gallon bucket for mixing. -

-Mixing Paddle: https://amzn.to/3Jf9Gmr

• You’ll need to attach this paddle to a drill. If you use a battery drill, make sure you have multiple batteries charged and ready. Mixing these materials can drain batteries quickly.

-Mixing Station Tarp or Floor Covering: https://amzn.to/3UeHRRg

- Blue Tape: https://amzn.to/3Ui9M33

- Chip Brush (paint brush): https://amzn.to/3Qo4lgH

• You’ll need at least one brush per coat, however it is recommended to have multiple per coat the case of delays and brush cure. These are not reusable.

- Nitrile Gloves: https://amzn.to/4cSoTY9

-Weenie or 4 Inch Roller Frame: https://amzn.to/3vFWSCx

-Weenie or 4 Inch Roller Cover: https://amzn.to/3Q0erUO

-Floor Scraper (Flake System Only): QEP 14 in. W Floor Scraper Hand Tool with Replacement blade and Handle Grip 20900Q - The Home Depot

-Trash Bags: https://amzn.to/3W2ihR7

Step-by-Step Installation

1. Preparation

• Start by thoroughly grinding or acid etching your floor. We highly recommend diamond grinding your floor to achieve a proper CSP (Concrete Surface Profile). Any cracks or chips should be repaired to ensure a smooth application. There are plenty of resource guides online to walk you through the acid etching process if you choose to go that route.

• Vacuum and clean up the floor to eliminate any sitting dust, debris or contaminates. If you choose to acid etch you floor, remember to allow it to completely dry overnight. Any remaining moisture can cause major issues with the coating materials. The only exception to this rule is if you are using a moisture tolerant coating material.

• Using masking tape, cover up any adjacent surfaces that you don’t want to get material on. We like to use blue masking tape, as it holds well while avoiding stripping paint off of the surface.

2. Setting Up Your Mixing Station

• Now that the floor is clean, dry, and ready for the coating, place a tarp on the floor as close to your exit point as possible without blocking it. It’s smart to have a power outlet close by for your mixing drill. (When you have installed the majority of the floor, you’ll put your materials, drill, buckets, etc. outside the exit and off the install area, and remove the mixing area from the floor in order to install the last section where the mixing station was placed.)

• Set up your mixing station with two defined sides. One side will contain your material Part A, and the other the Part B (which is your material Resin and Hardener). The center of the mixing area is where you’ll place your mixing buckets and drill/paddle. Dedicate a few mix measure buckets to be Part A and Part B measuring cups. Keep those mix measures on the same side as the original material buckets. This prepares you to pre-measuring both parts of the material in these mix measures and then dump them into the 5 gallon bucket.

• Using a trash bag or cardboard, find a place on your mixing station to place the mixing paddle between mixes.

• Before you proceed to the time restrictive mixing and installing process, it’s important to have your nap rollers, squeegee, paint brushes, and cleats ready to go. (If you are installing a colored flake system, pre-pour multiple 5 gallon buckets with flakes, so you don’t have to spend time filling them while your material is on the floor beginning to cure. Set up your 9 and 18 inch nap roller and covers and fasten them onto the extension poles. Place your squeegee, either by screw or thread onto the end of your broom stick. Then prepare your cleats by adjusting the length of the straps so they are tight enough to stay on your feet. Some installers may choose to mix their material with the cleats on.

3. Mixing

• Now comes the MOST IMPORTANT STEP of the install process. We say that because if you get the mixing wrong, no matter how beautiful the floor looks, it might not cure. Then your stuck trying to scrape or grind off a half cured floor, which adds days of labor to your process.

• With you Resin and Hardener on opposite sides of the mixing station, pre-measure the correct volume and ratio of each material. Don’t cross contaminate resin and hardener in your mix measures. It adds some extra cost and time to pre-measure in this way, but it ensures you ALWAYS have the exact ratio correct. Some installers use a paint stick, and measure out the ratio in inches on the stick, mark it, and pour materials up to those lines. It can work, but the problem is that the taper of your 5 gallon bucket creates an uneven ratio, which can result in a failed cure.

• Some materials require a 1:1, 2:1, 3:1, or 4:1 ratio. To reiterate, keep the Part A and Part B (resin and hardener) Mix Measures separate from each other so you don’t accidentally pour too much of one of the components. Pre-measure the full mix in multiple mix measures before pouring them into your 5 gallon. Using you mixing paddle and drill, mix the material for the required amount of time. (If you aren’t sure of the mixing ratios, mixing time, working time, or pot life, find the Material Technical Data Sheets online and follow the instructions).

• After the full mixing time is complete. Place your mixing paddle on your cardboard or plastic, and your mix measures back on the correct side of the station, and proceed to the install process.

4. Applying the Primer/Base Coat

• With your cleats on, rollers set up, and squeegee fastened, bring your mixing bucket to the area of the floor you plan to start at. It is ideal to start on the opposite of the floor from your mixing area, and work your way to the station. If you have a unique shaped space that isn’t just a square or rectangle, you’ll want to plan the areas so that you can pull multiple areas out evenly with each other, while working your way to the exit.

• The process of installing epoxy is different from topcoats, and there are varying ways to do it depending on your material’s pot life and working time. Plan accordingly. If you have a material with a shorter pot like, you’ll want to pour the material in a line across a wall or edge. (If you are installing a material like Urethane or Polyaspartic, you can leave the mix in a bucket or dip pan and dip and roll the floor.) Once the material is poured in an even bead across the edge, you’ll take your 9 and 18 inch rollers and wet them in the mixture. Once wet, you’ll set them aside. Using your squeegee, push or pull the material along the edge/wall, and work your way back and forth. If you have joints in the floor, try and pull the material quickly over the joint, so you don’t waste too much material in the joints. Once you have finished with the mix and squeegee. Get your 9 inch and 18 inch rollers and begin rolling the installed area. 2 or 3 passes with these rollers is usually sufficient to evenly spread the material. Use the 9 inch on smaller areas or edges, and the 18 on the main larger areas. NOTE: When you set your squeegee down and pick up your rollers, there is likely going to be a puddle of material that drained off the wet roller. Make sure you roll it out before starting, so you don’t have lumps in your finished floor.

• If you are installing this system by yourself, it can be stressful. You’ll need to move quickly. If you have multiple installers, it is beneficial to have one person responsible for mixing and squeegee and another responsible for rolling the material, painting details around the edges. (And throwing the flakes if you are doing a flake system)

• You’ll bounce back and forth between mixing and pulling out the material on the floor until you reach your mixing station. Then, make your final mix, move the mixing station out and install the last area. IMPORTANT NOTE: Remember to maintain a wet edge at all times.

• OPTIONAL - FLAKE SYSTEM

  • If you are installing flakes, you will want to throw the flakes ONLY AFTER you have rolled an area. Never throw flakes into an area that hasn’t been rolled yet. It’s also important to keep track of the amount of time the material has been on the floor. If you wait TOO long, the material will start to harden up and the flakes wont stick. Check your data sheets for the working, tack and cure times. It is helpful to have a larger area worked out before you throw flakes. If you have a choice, choose a basecoat material that gives you a longer working and cure time.

  • With a 5 gallon bucket filled with flakes, walk out onto the rolled area and cup some flakes in your hand and throw it high into the air. (Like feeding chickens) The higher you throw them, the better they disperse and fall evenly onto the floor. If you are doing a 100% flake broadcast, keep throwing an area until the shine of the epoxy is gone. If you are doing a lower percentage broadcast, throw the flakes high, wait for them to fall, and then assess if you want to throw more. It’s a matter of preference. Refill your flake buckets when you run out.

• OPTIONAL - STEM WALLS

  • Stem walls around the perimeter of a garage, shop, or facility can be coated with epoxy, flaked, and topcoated. To do this, you’ll want to install the stem wall coatings before you do the floor.

  • Using a smaller mix measure, make a small sized mix. The smaller the better because this can be time consuming and you don’t want to lose the mix. Work your way around the walls and roll the material onto the vertical/top of the stem wall or curb.

  • If you are doing a flake system, you’ll want to fall back between mixes or every 25-30 linear feet. Pour a pile of flakes at the base of the wall. Cup the flakes in your hand and pull them vertically up the wall. The sticky coating will grab the flakes and the remainder will fall to the floor. Then pull the pile of flakes along the wall and continue this until the pile is gone. Then add more.

  • If you flaked the stem walls, you’ll want to run a vacuum or broom around the perimeter to clean up the loose flakes that were left behind BEFORE you install the floor. Be careful not to rub the coated wall with the vacuum wand or broom.

5. Preparing for Next Coat (whether it be a second build-coat or top-coat)

• There are multiple ways to verify that the previous coating has cured. First, check the data sheets for the standard cure time for foot traffic. This will depend on the temperature of the room. Cross reference the temperature range with the cure time and then check the floor as soon as you reach the minimum. Check to make sure it is dry enough to walk on without leaving footprints. Also, be aware of the recoat window for your material. You’ll want to install your next coating after the foot traffic time but before the maximum recoat window, otherwise your material won’t bond correctly. (if you miss the recoat window, you’ll need to sand the entire surface to create a new profile for the next coating to bond to)

• Now is the time to go through the floor and find any debris chunks, drips, puddling, and any imperfections you don’t like. Using a sander or some other abrasive tooling you can sand them down or scrape them off.

• FLAKE SYSTEM: At this point, you will get a leaf blower or broom and sweep up all of the loose flakes from the floor. Sweep them into a pile and put them back into the box or bag they came in. You can keep them or throw them out. At this point they are in good condition and could be used for another floor. Then, using a standup floor scraper or drywall scraper, begin scraping the floor back and forth. Hit every square inch of floor with the scraper. It is helpful for a smoother finish to scape it in multiple directions. This process breaks off any sharp flake edges that are sticking up, and gives you a smooth surface. Then, sweep or blow the loose flakes from scraping into a pile and remove them from the floor. Vacuum the floor again to clean up any loose flakes that might have been missed. Then you are ready for the next coat.

6. Next Coat or Topcoat

• Repeat the process from the first coating if this is another build coat. If you are installing a colored flake system, make sure this coat is done with clear material, while the basecoat is usually done with a tinted color that compliments the flake blend. It is possible to do clear for the basecoat beneath the flakes, but it can result in visual concrete between some of the flakes.

• If you are installing second broadcast broadcast of flakes, repeat the previous process.

• If you are installing a grout coat before the topcoat, repeat the same process.

7. Applying the Topcoat

• There are two different ways to apply a topcoat, depending on what your material is. For most urethane and polyaspartics, you’ll have a long enough pot life to be able to dip and roll out of a bucket, which is the easiest way to apply topcoat if you are installing with one person. However, if you have multiple people, we highly recommend using the squeegee method again to make sure your coating is as consistent as possible.

• When you set up a mixing station for the topcoat, you’ll do the same thing as the other coats. Separate your two material parts (A and B, or Resin and Hardener) and gather up the other tools and supplies. Depending on pot life and working time, make a mix that you will be able to handle getting on the floor and rolled within the working time.

• There are multiple types of dip pans, but you’ll need one that is deeper than the standard painting pans. It needs to be deep enough to contain at least 1.5 gallons of material. You can get dip pans that work with 18 inch rollers, which is what we recommend, or you can dip and roll with a 9 inch roller and then finish roll with your 18 inch.

• To dip and roll, you dip your roller into the pan and fully submerge it. Allow it to soak up as much material as possible. When you begin rolling it onto the floor, it is helpful to keep straight lines and edges, as well as maintain the same length of roll per dip. That way you know you are putting it down consistently across the floor. It is helpful to dap the roller three or four times up a row, and then roll that row out. If you are trying to go thinner, you can spread that one dip into two or three rows. Once again, try and maintain straight lines, and overlap your rolling by 30 or 40 percent when you do a final finish roll.

• FLAKE SYSTEM: We highly recommend using the squeegee method. It is essential that you have the material thick enough to fill in the gaps between the flakes, while also sealing/encapsulating the flakes. If you don’t put the topcoat of a flake system down consistently, you will feel differences in texture, and if the flakes don’t become fully sealed, you can have discoloration down the road due to contaminates and UV light. However, it is possible to dip and roll a topcoat for a flake system. Just make sure you put it down thick and consistent, keeping your rows equal in length each time. Also, try and roll it 3 or 4 times to make sure the material is completely spread out.

Final Thoughts

Floor Cleats - Using floor cleats can be dangerous. When walking on a smooth surface with liquid material on it, there can be slips and falls. We highly recommend “walking like a duck” or, bringing feet straight up and then straight down when walking.

Installing epoxy, urethane, and polyaspartic floor coatings can be a rewarding project that enhances the beauty and functionality of any space. By using the recommended tools and following these steps, you can achieve a smooth, professional-quality finish. Remember to check out the products linked above to ensure you have everything you need to get started!

This step-by-step guide should help you through the process, but always refer to specific product instructions and safety guidelines to ensure the best results. Happy flooring!